Rabbit Care Tips for the Summer

Gene Gillispie of Vienna, Missouri has been raising and showing rabbits since his 4-H days back in 1966, and he and his wife Sue have been ARBA (American Rabbit Breeders Association) judges for 32 years and 25 years, respectively. Currently maintaining 400 rabbits representing 11 breeds, Gene and Sue have learned a thing or two about caring for rabbits during the hot summer months. He recently shared a few of their most tried and true tips.

• Water, water, water. It’s essential to provide plenty of fresh, clean, cool water at all times, but it’s especially vital in summer. If you don’t have an automatic watering system, change your rabbits’ water at least two times a day—preferably three. (TIP: We have a circulating watering system at home, so we freeze gallon milk jugs of water and place them in the reservoir to keep drinking water cool.)
• Made in the shade. Always provide plenty of shade or a cooling area in summer. Rabbits cannot tolerate intense heat and high humidity. (TIP: Some fairs and shows are held in parks. You may think you’ve placed your rabbits safely in the shade, but you need to monitor them regularly. If the sun is moving, so are the shady spots.)
• Move it, move it, move it. You must provide air movement. Even if your barn is air conditioned, you must provide air exchange or the air will become stagnant. If you’re going to a 4-H judging, don’t pack your carriers too tightly. Replace litter with one of those absorbent pet pads (sawdust and wood chips can block airflow). Battery-operated clip-on fans are a good way to circulate air conditioning in your vehicle. Once you arrive at the show, electrical outlets are usually available, so the pros know to bring along a fan to stir the air in their cooling area. (IMPORTANT TIP: Always stir the air below or above cages, as any direct current can cause respiratory problems.)
• Ice is nice. To help keep your rabbits cool at home, freeze water in two-liter soda bottles, then lay one in the cage. Most rabbits will enjoy resting against the bottle to keep cool. (TIP: If you’re traveling to a show, fill and freeze several 20-ounce bottles of water. These smaller bottles will fit easily into your soft drink cooler, and you can distribute them throughout your carrier as needed.)
• No sweat. Rabbits don’t sweat. Instead, they radiate heat out of their bodies through their ears. When traveling, we carry a spray bottle of water in our cooler. We like to mist their ears with cool water to help them stay cool. (TIP: If you see that a rabbit is getting too warm, putting a cool, wet cloth on its ears is the quickest way to cool it down in a hurry.)
• Dining after dark. If your rabbits seem to be eating less during a heat wave, don’t be alarmed. It’s only natural. Digestion generates additional heat. Since rabbits like to feed at night naturally, try feeding after sundown, even at 9 or 10 p.m., when the air is cooler. (TIP: Feed that is put out in the morning will likely go stale and be less palatable.)
• Eat the right stuff. Since rabbits will consume less food when they are hot, reduce or eliminate the feeding of “treats.” This will help to ensure that they consume as much of a balanced complete pelleted diet as possible. And if you use a top dressing, don’t use too much as that will generate more body heat.
• Rules of the road. When traveling to a show in warm weather, be very cautious and conscious of your rabbits’ welfare. For instance, don’t leave your rabbits unattended while you pull in for a quick bite. Rabbits can overheat very, very quickly. Even with the air conditioning running, you may need to cover windows with solar film to block out direct sunlight.
• The friendly skies. If you’re planning on shipping your rabbits, check with the airline well in advance. There are a lot of restrictions and they often vary between the different airlines and airports. (TIP: Some airlines may refuse to ship animals during the hottest months.)
• Summer babies. If you’re raising babies during the summer, be aware that they can overheat very easily in nest boxes. Solid bottom nest boxes are too hot, so use boxes with perforated bottoms or make a nest box with a light, airy bottom that will allow the air to circulate through. (TIP: If we notice the doe pulling extra fur to line the nest, we remove part of it after a while to keep the babies from overheating in extreme temperatures.)